I’ve had a week off from work and when I have been able to, I have been sewing up a storm. Always late to the party, I decided to cut and sew a new Moneta dress by Collette.
Now I have this gorgeous scuba knit from the Textile Centre that I wanted to use but only have 2 metres. Unsure of whether this would be enough for the Moneta (it is a while since I made my last one), I did what all sane seamsters do – I cut into a fabric even more precious to me. Not that either is particularly precious, just one more so than the other!
I think I did have slightly more of the fabric I used, which is another knit. I bought it from Fabricland in Portsmouth a while ago. I find it hard to come across good knits in Fabricland – not sure if that is my bad timing or whatnot but they definately do better wovens in there. Anyway, I saw this monochrome fabric (the black is matt but glimmers slightly) and it was the end of the bolt. I think I managed to get about 2.3 metres. I’d have bought a full bolt if I could, it is lovely.
I’ve recently sorted out my PDFs into some sort of cohesive order (you can see a post on this here) and seemed to have a mixture of pattern pieces for the Moneta that didn’t make a lot of sense to me. It looked like I’d previously cut the 2x but I wasnt completely sure on this! In one of my Moneta’s the bodice is fairly tight so I decided I needed to cut a 3x. I have no idea why.
So once PDF was put together I laid it on my fabric and decided to lower the bodice by an inch and raise the skirt by the same. I just folded the PDFs so they are usable in their original format in the future. This worked and I just managed to get my Moneta out of the 2.3 metres.
I whizzed through it. I overlocked the shoulders – the fabric was quite thick so didn’t stabilise the shoulders, which probably should have done as the garment will weigh heavy but maybe next time. I sewed arms in and the side seams all straight on the overlocker. I tried on the bodice at this stage and it looked like it fitted, but without the skirt attached it was hard to say for sure.
I have tried on numerous occasions to use clear elastic and I am just not a fan. I looked through my stash to find an alternative and came up with 3/4 inch black elastic. I put it around my waist where I wanted the skirt to gather and cut off a length matching my waist plus an inch for overlap.
I sewed up the skirt at both sides.
I then divided the elastic into about 8 equal sections and marked it accordingly. I sewed the two ends together, overlapping by half an inch, using a zigzag stitch on my machine.
I attached the elastic to the skirt using pins, aligning at seams and then the associated points as marked on the elastic (done by folding the fabric in halves, quarters etc) and sewed elastic and skirt together using a zigzag stitch. This gave a lovely even gather.
What I should have done was match the length of elastic to the bodice piece, not to my body, but it worked out okay. I had to slightly ease the bodice in.
I then sewed the bodice to the skirt, using the zig zag stitch and then I overlocked the edge of the elastic to ensure that it wasnt rough against my skin. The back bodice was lower so it ended up looking like a lower waistline at the back but this worked out well – you couldnt see it due to the busyness of the pattern and it evened out my bottom hem as my ample bottom always brings the hem up.
Last week I purchased a lovely new coverstitch machine (Janome Coverpro 2000cpx) and used this to hem the hem, neckline and arms. It takes all of the trouble out of hemming and turns it into a pleasurable experience.
Et Voila the dress is made!
As you can see from the photos, We went down to the local beach for the photo shoot. Hard to take photos on a full beach without looking totally self absorbed!
I felt special when I was wearing this dress! The fabric is fairly thick – too thick for the beach but nice enough for transitioning weather – however, the bodice is far too big. I could pinch at least 1.5 inches on each side of my waist, the shoulders were hanging on for dear life and there was a bit of a gape. This was only ever intended to be a workable toile so it is fine, as is wearable so I am happy. For my next Moneta I will go down to at least 2x, possibly a 1x – I will take my upper bust measurement and see how I go. I can always grade out at the waist and with a gathered skirt its not a huge issue for the hips.
Have you made a Moneta? If so how did you find the process? Leave a comment – I would love to hear from you.