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Sapporo Coat by Papercut Patterns

This winter I have been on a coat making spree. I’ve made a Minoru Jacket by Sewaholic, a Trench Coat by Simple Sew Patterns and downloaded the patterns for about three others. When I initially saw the Sapporo Coat I loved the style lines but didn’t think a cocoon shape would suit my plus size figure. I began seeing more and more people make the coat, and when I saw Jessalli on Youtube do a sew along for the pattern and saw what a quick and easy make it was I caved.

David James Photography

Although the PDF is 42 pages to put together, there are only 8 pattern pieces in total. It didn’t take long to assemble at all. I know putting PDFs together are not everyone’s idea of fun but I find it relaxing. The pattern comes fully lined apart from the sleeves which are self lined. Getting the shell, lining, facings and interfacings in 8 pieces in a win in my book.

I have a few fabrics I could have used but decided to go with an ex-designer wool from Fabric Godmother that I bought for £15 per metre. It’s not available on their site now but I think it may have been reduced down significantly. In my insanity I decided not to bother with a toile! This was mainly because the design was a relaxed style but also, admittedly, out of laziness.

During the process of making this coat, fluff went everywhere! It drove me mad!

Cutting the shell was pretty straight-forward. I decided on a lightweight butterfly fabric for the lining. I cut one piece but it was just too lightweight and sheer (I think it was a georgette) so abandoned that fabric. I’d read online those fabrics were not a good idea as you’d see the seams from the shell. To be honest, I was just looking for any excuse not to sew with a fabric that was going to give me a hard time. I wanted to sew from my stash only but couldn’t decide what to use. I showed my husband three fabrics and used his winner. He was right, it was a good choice and contrasted the shell nicely. I’d bought this fabric at Rainbows (a local haberdashery that has recently closed its doors) for £3 per metre in the sale. It is a quilting cotton so not an obvious choice for a lining as not very slippery but it ended up working well.

A lot of people have said the instructions for this pattern were easy to follow. I found this to be the case most of the time but there were a few times when I just could not get what it was telling me to do no matter how many times I read it. This is where Jessalli’s sew along came in really handy. Sewing the back neck facing to the main shell stumped me completely until I watched the tutorial, and I never would have worked out the mitred corner process without the video either. I really recommend watching it if you are making this coat.


Here are some photos of my handstitching:

Here is my handstitching side on – you can see the stitches if you really look but when its hanging upright you cant see a thing.


This is a picture of my handstitching the lining to the arm facing – really proud of this!

The coat actually sews up really quickly. I did use interfacing but not sure I needed to with my fabric choices. Once sewn, you leave a gap in the side seam and bag it out. It makes hemming completely unnecessary which is a massive win in my book. There is some handstitching needed to sew up the side seam gap and to attach the lining to the faced sleeves and that does take a little time. I put on a video while I did it and I didnt notice the time it took.

The end result is that I absolutely love my coat and am very proud of it! I’m still not sure its the best shape for my figure but it makes me feel very glam wearing it! I’d make another in a heartbeat; perhaps in the summer out of a heavy linen fabric.


The finished coat hanging up
Picture of the lining attached to the self-facing/collar
Picture of the coat inside out – beautiful whichever way you look at it

Thanks for reading, until next time..

One Comment

  1. Great make. The lining and outside fabric is perfect and have a beautiful match. Would liked to see how of you wearing it.

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